The horses of Lipizzaner

So, I don't know crap about horses, but these white weirdos are the real deal.  A few years ago I spent a morning with the Sheikh's horses in Dubai, and I have to say that these white Lipizzaners were way cooler than his divas.

The Lipizzaner horses  of Slovenia are a world class breed.  This farm in Lipica, Slovenia has been producing the horses for longer than any other horse farm, undisturbed.  Many of the lines can be traced back 5 centuries.

The horses are typically used for dressage as they are very powerful, agile, and smart.  I did not get to ride one (thank god for that - I would probably fall off), but we hung with the big boys and they were definitely cool.

Bled Castle

Bled Castle is perched precariously on a cliff overlooking stunning Lake Bled.  We stayed 5 nights near the lake at Reka Hisa guesthouse with my grandparents.  It is such an incredible area.  Slovenia is probably my favorite country in Europe.

Škocjan Caves and a Slovenian underground cave river

In the Karst region of Slovenia is one of the largest cave systems in the world.  There is an underground canyon that is unsurpassed in size, a strange river that runs through the cave system, and a number of crazy cliffs and growths.  We walked through the cave and it opened up into this massive canyon - truly breathtaking. Unesco has even recognized the caves as a world heritage site.

Boo's Corner - Lots of Mykonos from guest writer KRISTIN

Thinking I am real cool at Super paradise..

Little Venice in Mykonos

Little Venice is an area of Mykonos just on the harbor that is famous for sunsets and being pretty. 

Windmill Mania - Mykonos

Mykonos has its fair share of famous windmills, and I probably took about 300 pictures of these things.  Just ask Kristin.  She probably has nightmares about me taking pictures of windmills.  Without further ado - here are some windmill photos.

Mykonos at night

Mykonos at night is a convoluted maze.  Literally.  When the town was designed, it was designed as a maze to confuse outsiders.  It confused us.

My favorite time to really explore a city is at night.  At that point, the cruise ships are long gone (usually), the locals begin to come out, and you can get a better sense of what a place is really like.

This guy - Useful local edition

This guy just sits on this perch all day every day, doling out hints.  There may be rum in that Coke.

A Mykonos Bee Store

Here is a store devoted to honey!

Barbie - the yacht from George Town

Mykonos has no shortage of yachts.  It a a place to show off your yacht, even if it is called Barbie.

Paraportiani in Mykonos

Paraportiani is the famous Cycladic church you have probably, at one time or another, seen a picture of.  It is all curvy and strange, looking extremely "handmade."  It is as though someone sculpted it out of clay and just left it to harden in the bright Greek sun.  Above is a picture of the church as the sun begins to set and it takes on a golden hue.

The church began its construction in the 15th century, but it took the island Greeks  until the 18th century to complete it.

Our favorite beach in Mykonos - Agios Ioannis

Our first full day in Mykonos, we scooped up an ATV from Fabio's younger brother and headed for a highly recommended beach.  We settled down and just sort of wasted the day away.  I read Civilization by Niall Ferguson.  Kristin read some sort of Jackie Collins book, and that was about it.  We spoke little, except when our stomachs began to growl. 

Finding the beach was easy.  We mounted our GPS on the ATV and dropped a pin where we though we would find the beach across from the island of Delos.  An ATV is the perfect way to explore Mykonos.

Furmonster of the day - Mykonos

He had to be held back when another pup walked by - pretty dirty

Patience is sometimes the key to photography - Mykonos WIndmills

I believe the key to great travel photography is 30% camera, 30% skill, 20% patience, and 10% creativity.  Patience is really critical and it can mean waiting for the right time of day to capture a picture, or even just literally waiting until people move out of the shot.  The latter is something that I am constantly bumping up against, and I am known to wait over an hour for people just to move out of a shot.

Petros the Mykonos pelican

In 1958, an injured pelican was nursed back to health by a fisherman on Mykonos.  The locals named him Petros and he was a town favorite and a symbol of Mykonos.  He was sadly hit by a car in 1985 and died.

Three new pelicans took residence on the island, a male and two females.  They named the male Petros in honor of the original and he is found around the harbor in old town daily, strutting his stuff, menacing tourists, and stealing fish.

Tropicana Paradise Beach - Mykonos

The Travel Channel voted Tropicana at Paradise Beach the best beach bar in the world.  It is set in a perfect bay with clear calm water (above), and every day in the late afternoon the party starts around 5 with Sasa - the King of Mykonos leading the charge. 

The wheels come off a bit, and I imagine that it would have been a great and horrible place to supplant a 19 year old Justin Delaney.  Should we ever meet via some kind of time travel worm hole, I will be sure not to bring this place up.  Kristin and I people-watched for a few hours and then literally drove our ATV off into the sunset. Check out the pictures.

This Guy - King of Mykonos Edition

This guy is some kind of celebrity DJ/MC in Mykonos at Tropicana Paradise Beach - which is considered the best beach bar in the world (maybe a bit of a stretch).  Check out that bathing suit!  There were some guys from Abu Dhabi at the club and he shouted Abu Dhabi every 3.5 minutes into his mic.  Good times.

This Guy - Mykonos All-star Edition

 I don't know who this guy is, or where he came from, but for the better part of an hour, Kristin and I fixed our gaze upon him.  He had the moves of a nimble sex-crazed ogre.

Fleeing Central Europe for Mykonos

The winter came to Vienna, and we fled.  We boarded a plane early on a cold morning with what appeared to be flurries hovering in the sky and flew straight for Greece, where the temp doubled, and we traded clouds for sun.  All around, it felt like the right thing to do.

The horse who loved me - Lipizzaners in Slovenia

We visited an area of Slovenia known for their Lipizzaner horses.  The horses are just incredibly beautiful and the breed began in the Karst region of Slovenia in the 1500's.  The horses are typically used for dressage, which is pretty boring to watch, but once you get into it, it is nearly impossible to think of anything else.  Or so I am told.  The horses are rare and expensive.

Anyways, we were passing this small farm, and for whatever reason, this horse saw me, got incredibly excited, and sprinted over to say Hello.  It was as if he had waited all of his life for me to arrive at his gate. He looked that excited.

Furmonsters of the day - Showdown edition

What you lookin at punk

Exploring the tiny town of Rovinj, Croatia

Rovinj is a small fishing port in northenr Croatia that has been a part of just about everything from the Byzantine Empire to Venice, Austria, and Italy.  As such it is a colorful outpost, surrounded by the sea with an old church tower as the centerpiece and narrow lanes for getting lost.

The goodness of Demel

Demel makes the best sweets in the world.  We stopped by and ate a few things, and it did not disappoint.  Earlier in the trip I promised an older Austrian man that I would visit Vienna for a year, but I had to also promise that I would never look at a bathroom scale.  Now I know why he said that.  The desserts here are exquisite.

Le Cru Champagne Shop in Vienna

This is a cool little shop in Vienna that only sells champagne.  That's it.  They specialize in single grape small-batch "microbrews" from estates in France.  We were a little intimidated to enter in our rain suits, but we found warm service and were even offered free tastings, even though we insisted that we were leaving Vienna to soon to drink any champagne.

Figlmüller's perfect schnitzel in Vienna

On the recommendation of numerous people, including my grandparents and an Austrian man with a perfectly curled grey mustache and a penchant for British racing, we decided to try Figlmuller during our visit to Vienna for a heavy lunch. 

After riding the subway all over Vienna for free, we saddled up next to these meaty disks the size of generous pizzas.  The schniztzel was served simply with a lemon.  The schnitzel has been served here for over 100 years and every serving is violently pounded to a thickness of 30mm.  The Austrian emperor roll is used for the bread crumb breading and is perfectly crispy and light.

Furmonster of the day - Crap my pants Rovinj edition

This Black Russian Terrier looked really sweet and cool, so Kristin and I approached the owner and dog. That is when the dog left out a growl and we realized it was possible a death eater.  "He no like people."  Indeed, indeed. 

Greatest travel guide store ever - freytag & berndt

We stumbled upon this store in Vienna.  It was all travel guides, travel books, and maps.  It was like some kind of mecca for Kristin and I.  We did not even know such places existed.  At one point a sales associate came up to me and asked, "Can I help you?"  I just stared off into space and replied, "No."

Budapest at Night

Cruising the Danube with my grandparents and Kristin was an incredible experience.  As the lights fade, Budapest transforms from a city to a city bathed in gold.  Above is the Parliament building looking as if it is covered in 22kt gold leaf.

The photography of Budapest

After spending 3 days in Budapest and eating goulash and paprika chicken way too much, I have decided that it is a great place.  The Magyar language is difficult, so much so that I am convinced paying my parking ticket will be harder than getting a phd.  Aside from the odd waiter who gets thrills out of withholding bread, the Hungarians are incredibly nice and helpful.  The wide boulevards and immaculate architecture exceeded expectations so much that upon arriving in Vienna I was disappointed.

We left Hungary for 5 days in beautiful Slovenia, but before we start sharing, here is a bunch of Hungary.  Tomorrow, I will share my night photography of Budapest, which I believe is some of the best stuff I have ever done.

This guy

Being Blue/Cute

Dancing Street Lamps in Budapest

Every now and then, I take a picture, look down at my camera, and just smile.  This is one of those pictures.  From the pink paint brush like strokes in the sky to the couple who you can barely make out on a bench to the to street lamps that appear to be dancing with each other.  I just love this picture. 

 It was taken from the Danube river at sunset in Budapest.

Budapest Opera House

Seeing a symphony at Budapest's old Opera House felt like transcending time and arriving back in some old world Budapest.  We were delighted by Wagner and other composers and the maestro finished the night with one of his own pieces, which led to what seemed like 30 minutes of clapping.

Old Jaguar in Budapest

 Old Jag in an old city in near perfect condition

The Jaguar

Szentendre shopping

Szentendre is a small quaint town just north of Budapest known for shopping and historic buildings.  Since my grandparents came to visit Kristin and I, and my grandmother loves to shop, we decided to just go straight in to the belly of the beast and go to this tourist shopping mecca on our first full day in Hungary.

Moose Wine!

Moose Wine!

The best thing I never ate

I don't even know what these things are, but good god, why did I not eat them?  The funny thing about going through pictures at the end of each day is that I see stuff that I totally missed out on.  Like these breads topped with heavenly goodness.

Kantin Budapest - Hungarian cuisine

Before hitting up the Opera house in Budapest, we dropped into this simple restaurant called Kantin.  They offered a brilliant 3 course menu with a bunch of great Hungarian options.  We really enjoyed it.

A strange antique shop in Szentendre, Hungary

We stumbled into this great shop in Szentendre, Hungary that had very old things.  Furniture from 1700's France, ornamental ivory swords, strange religious paintings from other worlds, and some kind of tusk from an arctic marine mammal from 1860 (Narwhal?).  It made me appreciate commerce. My favorite stores are the ones where I have no idea what I am going to get.  This place was as weird as it gets.

Arriving in Budapest

HDR - From Buda, looking out at Pest

We finally arrived in Budapest after an uneventful drive from Slovakia.  Truth be told, I do not even remember it.  We scooped up my grandparents at the airport and headed for our hotel in Pest - Hotel Palazzo Zichy.

Exploring the great Bratislava

We landed in Vienna and picked up our wheels at Sixt. Blazing across Austria at 95mph while listening to Old Dirty Bastard, we approached Bratislava.  What is Bratislava?  I really had not thought about it much before.

It ended up being one of the coolest cities we have ever visited.  It is a very quirky place with bizarre statues and people dressed in odd costumes amidst an old town center that fells perfectly preserved.  Several partiers lined the streets of old town.  The town was well stocked in  bachelor parties, bachelorette parties, and drunk goons watching Dortmund-Bayern square off in the Champions League final - on fact, it was as though all of old town was one big party.

This Guy - Slovak edition

I was trying to take a picture of this weird old modern thing, and this guy waked into the frame, slipped a hand into his pocket, and smirked a great Slovak smirk - great photobomb buddy!  He even winked at me afterwards.

Bratislava castle and the best chicken ever

The gates

These guys - Bratislava

Passed out in the park after a rough night

The old Slovakian mining town of Banská Štiavnica

The past whispers of grandeur have faded on the streets of Banska Stiavnica.  Heavily mined since the 3rd century BC, the Slovakian town of was once a hotbed for innovation and mineral wealth.  A massive source of gold and silver for Europe in the middle ages, the mining town was home to  a number of firsts.  It was the first mine to use gunpowder and the town housed the first technical school in the world.  Today, the old town is mined out and exists simply as a perfectly preserved medieval town, left as it was in its heyday.

Granted Unesco status in the early 90's, the old city square surrounds a gigantic plague column that looks like a strange art deco version of the eye of Sauron.  So what to do in such a place?  Wander.  Aimlessly.

We loved exploring this strange town and its surroundings, and, we had some bad pizza while watching 30 seconds to Mars videos in a little pastry/pizza shop.

Cumil the watcher, the missing paparazzi, and other weird statues in Bratislava

Bratislava has a number of strange statues.  There is this guy peeking out a manhole.  Another is a French soldier resembling Napoleon on a park bench.  There is also a guy tipping his hat commemorating an old Bratislava resident.  One of the most famous statues - The Paparazzi - was missing when we visited.  After looking for about an hour, we found some evidence of where he once stood, but we never figured out where he went.

The path to Njegos Mausoleum atop Mt. Lovcen

The road was too wet, the winds too strong, and the rains too hard.  As we ascended Mt. Lovcen in a beat down Skoda with our great driver "John" aka Cizmovik aka Clutchmaster Supreme, we decided to head back down, failing to reach our summit where the old prince bishop of Montenegro was put to rest - Petar II Petrovic-Njegos aka the Shakespeare of Montenegro.  We gave up halfway up the mountain.

As we went around the mountain, our driver stewed, feeling more guilty with each km.  He wanted us to see the top sight in Montenegro, so he made another run at the mountain from the other side.  He assured us that we would not miss our flight later that day and tossed the taxi meter out the window.

Budva, Montenegro from above

 Budva held like a cup by the Montenegros

Climbing the mountains behind Kotor

 After waiting small eternities for the skies to clear so we could climb the fortifications behind teh ancient city of Kotor, we found a few hour window to make the climb amidst cloudy skies and a tough beginning to the day.  While I did my morning routine just fine, Kristin was really dragging.  She managed to spill Cheerios all over our sink and accidentally put her pants on backwards.  I remember thinking, "yup, that's my climbing partner."

Of course, it was more of a pace up a few thousand steps than a true climb.  The weather was less than ideal, but the views were dizzying.

Kotor at Night

 The Kotor waterfront with the black mountains behind it - the black walls mark the sea gate wall