A walk atop the old Dubrovnik walls

No trip to Dubrovnik is complete without circling Old Dubrovnik atop the majestic city walls that surround her.  These walls are considered the greatest medieval fortifications in history and kept the city safe for hundreds of years.  

The current walls date from between the 12th and 17th centuries, though the first walls were built around the 8th century.  The walls run for about 2km, encircling the old town atop these gorgeous cliffs above the Adriatic. There are only 4 entrances into Old Dubrovnik through the walls, so the city is still very fortified even today.  Still, over 500 of the 800 or so buildings in Old Dubrovnik were damaged in the siege of Dubrovnik in 1991-1992.  During the war, the walls proved effective at protecting against even modern weaponry. It is said that the Serb forces wanted to detach Dubrovnik from Croatia and make it part of Montenegro.  

Over the years, the city has been attacked in over 7 wars.  The city has been tacked by Russians, Arabs, and Venetians, though never fell.

D'Vino Wine Bar in Dubrovnik is absolutely perfect

On Palmoticeva Street in Old Dubrovnik, D'Vino wine bar exists, simply being great.  We dropped in after some friends in Mostar recommended it. 

They specialize in Croatian wine and education.  Their manager or owner or whatever (pictured above standing) lectures the occupants of this small enoteca on the finer points of Croatian wine and his views on wine in general.  He is funny, charismatic, smart, and tough to figure out.  I attempted to understand how an Aussie ends up running Dubrovnik's best wine bar, and so I asked him how he got there.  He said "Lots of flights - Melbourne, Singapore, Frankfurt, Zagreb, and finally Dubrovnik."

Peacock on Lokrum

We ran into a lot of peacocks peacocking during our visit to Lokrum island just offshore of Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik's Buza Bar

Just outside the Dubrovnik city wall is a bar perched on some rocks - Buza Bar.  There is just one way in and one way out, and its existence seems to hang precariously between sea and wall.  The steps come down from the wall all the way to the crashing waves, exposing a perfect view of the Adriatic and Lokrum Island just offshore.  It goes perfectly with cold beverages and relaxing after a long day cruising duBro.

Furmonster of the day - Dubrovnik aka The Bro

 

What you talkin bout Willis

This guy

This guy was hanging around Dubrovnik harbor, throwing stuff around and letting out loud primal noises, all while a cigarette dangled gently at the tip of his lips

Dining in Dubrovnik

 Dalmatian coast squid light battered = the best calamari ever

Arriving in Dubrovnik, Croatia and beating the crowds

We finally arrived in Dubrovnik, Croatia.  It is absolutely beautiful, maybe even the prettiest in Europe.  It is whimsical and strong, fortified against both time and the sea with its huge old city walls.

Con los touristas

George Bernard Shaw once said "Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik."  Over 2 million people seek this paradise each year - over half of which are from cruise ships.  This means it is crowded, but we found plenty of ways to beat them.  Early and late, the town is peaceful and quiet.  Also, just outside the city walls is a different world, such as the one pictured above.  You can make out the city wall in the background.  This cove is quiet and peaceful, and it is also where many scenes are filmed in Game of Thrones.

Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina has a ton of character

Mostar does not hide its character.  It is an Ottoman jewel with its history written in bullet holes, old cobbled streets, and the creases on the faces of old Mostarians.  It is the rare place that is easier to picture 400 years ago than 20 years ago, when the Croat-Bosniak war tore the town to shreds, taking with it every bridge and several buildings as well as lives, but all the while, making the character of Mostar that much stronger.  

Even the perfect Stari Most bridge that connects the city above the emerald Neretva river was destroyed, but it took an estimated 60 shells of tank fire to take down the 400 year old masterpiece. 

In the early nineties, CNN called Mostar a permanent shooting gallery with 50 casualties per day.  Every graveyard was full, so bodies were buried in parks.  It was a war so complicated that after researching it for a couple days, I am even more confused than when I began.  There is an old video at the end of this post if you want to see what Mostar was like 20 years ago.

The Dervish Monastary of Blagaj, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Surrounded by a waterfall and built into a cliff, this Tekija, or Dervish Monastery is incredibly gorgeous tucked in a little corner of Bosnia and Herzegovina called Blagaj.

Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque of Mostar

One of Bosnia and Herzgovina's most picturesque mosques sits quietly perched on a bank of the Neretva river.  It is not extraordinary, but just looks perfect next to the flowing green river. Open since 1617, the mosque has been around since Ottoman times and flanks one of the oldest markets in Mostar, where travelers can buy local fruits, pomegranates, and honey.

The Bosnia and Herzegovina countryside

 Bombed out building outside of Mostar 

 A winding road