Saturday, July 4, 2009

Mist Shrouded Buddha and Turbulence in Indochina (Hong Kong - Bangkok)




I apologize for not updating yesterday, but we had an absolutely brutal travel day. We began our day with a compliementary easter style buffet at our hotel. It was essentially a triumvirate of offerings, American style, Chinese style, and British style. It was the best breakfast of the trip so far. I had waffles, pancakes, a variety of dim sum dishes, eggs, honey cheerios with bananas, and damn near a loaf of bread. World War 3 was fought in my stomach later betwixt these incompatible intakes, but the traveler's credo in terms of food leans towards a feast and famine mentality. In this case, we feasted. After breakfast, we took a cable car to Ngong Ping Village, The Tian Tan Buddha, and Po Lin Monastery. A thick fog had descended on Lantau Island, and there were numerous times during our cable car ride to the summit that we could not see where we were going, at all. This, combined with the high winds that were knocking our car around the sky, insured that our 20 minute ride to the top was truly high excitement. When we finally arrived, we ascended towards the foggy dreamscape of Tian Tan Buddha, which is one of the largest Buddhas in the world. It was really a shame that we could not see the enormous statue better, but the fog lent a sort of ephemeral feel to the Buddha, because visibility would come and go.




After the Buddha, we visited the Po Lin Monastery. Kristin and I lit incense and put each incense in offering trays. We dedicated each stick to members of our families, and we had so many that no one was left out, even dogs were included. We wrapped things up and returned to our hotel and checked out. We had to catch a flight on Royal Jordanian, or Air Jordan, as Kristin likes to say. We had a world of troubles checking in to the flight because we did not have the original credit card that was used to book the flights online. Because of this, we had to buy new tickets and will probably engage in a long and laborious process to have our initial cost refunded. This was a serious crisis that will haunt our trip like an annoying specter since most of our flights were booked with this card. After that debacle, we were treated to a terrifying rollercoaster ride through Indochina en route to Bangkok. It was the worst flight of our lives. The plane was empty, the food was Arabic, and the vibe of the commute was extremely desperate and foreboding. It was a relief to finally land in Bangkok. I am going back to bed now until about noon our time, and then we are going to get a thai massage and see what Bangkok has to offer.





Cable car ride





We rode in the crystal cabin which included a glass bottom





The initial ascent





Kristin and Justin





Ngong Ping





Rainy streets of Ngong Ping





The fog gave it a dreamy feel





The steps to Tian Tan Buddha





Tian Tan Buddha





The Large Buddha





Close-up





Kristin called this a snake tree





More statues





I love this picture





Po Lin





Po Lin Monastery





Kristin in front of offering area





Steps to Monastery





Goofing off on the way back down in our own car





Pool at Novotel - waiting for a flight





Croc at airport





Bedroom of our spacious digs in Bangkok





Kitchen and dining table





Bangkok





Living Room, Kristin communicating with home



Friday, July 3, 2009

10000 Buddhas and Kowloon jamming (Hong Kong)


Here is a map of Hong Kong, for reference to location of our tales




Our room at the Novotel Citygate - very posh




Sleeping Beauty and Tweet - finally a comf bed!




Climb to 10000 Buddhas Temple




He was mocking my struggle to the top




Another angle with the top in sight




View of Kowloon suburbs from temple of 10000 Buddhas




Inside main temple - the walls are covered with Buddhas - 12,800
of them




Close up of wall




Dhalsim - yoga flame!




Offering Bowl




That blue head on the left was giving me the willies




Temple Grounds - the iconography spreads across many Buddhist
cultures



Tower at 10000 Buddhas temple




This was about 100 steps up from the temple



And this awesome statue





Chinese village in outlying territories




Kowloon at night - a rush of sights, sounds, and above all, smells




Nathan Road in the much more working class Kowloon




Kristin at Ladies Market aka Counterfeit Alley




Dinner at Felix at the Peninsula Hotel


The Peninsula Hotel entrance




Hong Kong Island Skyline at night

Kristin wanted me to convey this message - "HAPPY 4th of JULY RACH!!!!"

We are going to explore Lantau island today and then we leave for Bangkok tonight at 9, luckily we
have a 4pm checkout, but it looks like it may storm all day.

A Return to Hong Kong



Hong Kong is an amazing city. At this point, I have to say that it is my favorite large city in the world. Kristin really likes how cute, bright, and friendly the city is, but has yet to crown it her favorite city in the world. That honor goes to Celina because Lou lives there, Go Bobcats! The subway system here is so flawless that I cannot even muster a complaint or single example of even a slight deviation from utter perfection. It is always on time, one never has to wait, the cars have plenty of seats, it goes all over the city and beyond, and it hauls some serious buns. Aesthetically, the city is a beautiful blend of water, mountains, green, and modernity. Most large cities have green scapes that just seem contrived and built into the city (New York, Boston), but Hong Kong feels like it has been designed with a certain dedication to balance of nature and man. I used to play a video game called Sim City, and Hong Kong is what your city would look like if you cheated at that game and built the perfect city. The people are extremely nice as well. A man that worked for the subway even randomly offered me a towel to wipe my sweaty forehead with at one point during our travels throughout the city. It made me think of the types of people that have these types of jobs in the United States, and how unlikely the above scenario would be. No way that ever happens. People are generally very helpful and seem to go out of their way to communicate pleasantries with a smile. Hong Kong has more shops and diversity of goods than anywhere I have ever been. It is a very good place to be a consumer. For example, tonight we visited a 14 story mall and spent some time in a shop that was trying to sell us a Chanel women's watch (40usd) and an Audemars Piguet men's watch (60usd) that both looked unbelievably real. 2 blocks over, you could buy both of the watches in their real versions for 200 times as much. It has a great range of options. The city also is very rich with a culture that is impossible to completely escape, but this is a very good thing. I could go on and on about Hong Kong, but after spending the whole day enjoying it, it is far too late for more elaborations on this subject.

We began our day in Macau at 6am. We decided to forgo our morning gambling and begin the journey back to Hong Kong. We took 1 taxi through the pouring rain back to the ferry station, and boarded a return boat with all the other gamblers and freaks that are up this early. It was a much smoother ride than our initial one. The boat was about twice as large. Oddly, we were again seated in the 10th row with a snoring Chinese guy blocking the aisle. Fun. After taking the Ferry to Central Hong Kong Island, we boarded the orange line for a 30 minute train ride to Lantau island, one of the outer Hong Kong islands. Our hotel is located in a gigantic mall on Lantau Island and is called the Novotel Citygate. We really like the hotel. For the first time during this trip, our bed is actually soft. We were beginning to think that all of our beds over here would be hard because maybe Asians like firm beds. Thankfully, we have found an exception to our hard bed hypothesis. After checking in and a light lunch to a cacophony of malfunctioning fire alarms, Kristin and I decided to part ways. She had not been feeling well all day and desired some quiet time at our hotel to sleep, read magazines, work out, and enjoy the spa. I wanted to continue my love affair with this wonderful city. I began my long journey to the Sha Tin 10000 Buddhas Monastery. I would utilize 4 subway lines, walk about two miles, and climb over 500 steep steps to reach this destination. The pilgrimage was long and brutal. After taking the subway to the "new territories, which is a large rural and suburb like area north of Kowloon and south of mainland China, I had to walk a ways to the temple entry. The actual temple is nestled up in the hills, about 500 steps up. It was an arduous task to climb these steps, and my mind wandered to that scene in Kill Bill when Uma is training with the master, and he makes her relentlessly climb steps. This gave me some peace, but my tendons stretched and snapped like a thousand rubber bands with each step. I am 30 years young I told myself, nothing is getting pulled today. The entire path up the hill is lined with gold Buddhas that appear to cheer and mock the climber. I made it to the summit, and enjoyed the temple with over 12,800 miniature Buddhas adorning the walls. The temple grounds were sort of under construction, but it was worth the trek.

After the long trip home, I arrive to find the better half taking Chinese tea in the executive lounge overlooking the Lantau mountains and cable cars. She was feeling better and wanted to go shopping. We had some light snacks with tea, and then got ready to hit up some night markets and dinner at The Peninsula Hotel, which for many years was considered to be "the finest hotel east of the Suez Canal." We began our shopping at Langham place mall, which offers 14 floors of shops, each floor arranged by theme (shoes, electronics, etc). We have been noticing a lot of young Chinese lesbian couples, and it always seems like one has a garish trucker hat on with a slogan such as: "Go Bitches!" or "What gets you up in the morning?" or "Sport Dude Flex." It is probably some type of odd Chinese microtrend, like emo rappers or ironic masons, which is something I may start when I get back home. Anyways, the mall was full of these couples. Kristin really wanted to go to the Ladies market, which offers knockoff items for extremely cheap, like fake Gucci handbags and A. Lange Sohne watches that usually retail for $50,000 for about 1/1000th of that. It is a heavy barter environment, and we decided that we would stock up when we come back through Hong Kong. because our bags our so full as is.

Our next stop was The Peninsula Hotel, which is sort of the place to see and be seen in Hong Kong. It is considered an institution for Hong Kong luxury, and we really enjoyed the main dining room. It is on the Kowloon Peninsula and the main dining room has huge floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Hong Kong Island Skyline. The room is everything stunning is meant to convey. Kristin ate a soup and salad (fist pump) and I had the sea bass on a bed of spinach and shrimps. The meal tasted amazing, but like all expensive meals my gag reflux of spending resentment creeped in following the final bite. We decided to take a cruise across the harbor on the Star Ferry, which is an old ferry that has operated for over 100 years. It was a very cheap (about 25 cents) and romantic cruise with a great view of the night skyline. I will post the rest of the pics in about 6 hours when I wake up.