Friday, July 3, 2009

10000 Buddhas and Kowloon jamming (Hong Kong)


Here is a map of Hong Kong, for reference to location of our tales




Our room at the Novotel Citygate - very posh




Sleeping Beauty and Tweet - finally a comf bed!




Climb to 10000 Buddhas Temple




He was mocking my struggle to the top




Another angle with the top in sight




View of Kowloon suburbs from temple of 10000 Buddhas




Inside main temple - the walls are covered with Buddhas - 12,800
of them




Close up of wall




Dhalsim - yoga flame!




Offering Bowl




That blue head on the left was giving me the willies




Temple Grounds - the iconography spreads across many Buddhist
cultures



Tower at 10000 Buddhas temple




This was about 100 steps up from the temple



And this awesome statue





Chinese village in outlying territories




Kowloon at night - a rush of sights, sounds, and above all, smells




Nathan Road in the much more working class Kowloon




Kristin at Ladies Market aka Counterfeit Alley




Dinner at Felix at the Peninsula Hotel


The Peninsula Hotel entrance




Hong Kong Island Skyline at night

Kristin wanted me to convey this message - "HAPPY 4th of JULY RACH!!!!"

We are going to explore Lantau island today and then we leave for Bangkok tonight at 9, luckily we
have a 4pm checkout, but it looks like it may storm all day.

A Return to Hong Kong



Hong Kong is an amazing city. At this point, I have to say that it is my favorite large city in the world. Kristin really likes how cute, bright, and friendly the city is, but has yet to crown it her favorite city in the world. That honor goes to Celina because Lou lives there, Go Bobcats! The subway system here is so flawless that I cannot even muster a complaint or single example of even a slight deviation from utter perfection. It is always on time, one never has to wait, the cars have plenty of seats, it goes all over the city and beyond, and it hauls some serious buns. Aesthetically, the city is a beautiful blend of water, mountains, green, and modernity. Most large cities have green scapes that just seem contrived and built into the city (New York, Boston), but Hong Kong feels like it has been designed with a certain dedication to balance of nature and man. I used to play a video game called Sim City, and Hong Kong is what your city would look like if you cheated at that game and built the perfect city. The people are extremely nice as well. A man that worked for the subway even randomly offered me a towel to wipe my sweaty forehead with at one point during our travels throughout the city. It made me think of the types of people that have these types of jobs in the United States, and how unlikely the above scenario would be. No way that ever happens. People are generally very helpful and seem to go out of their way to communicate pleasantries with a smile. Hong Kong has more shops and diversity of goods than anywhere I have ever been. It is a very good place to be a consumer. For example, tonight we visited a 14 story mall and spent some time in a shop that was trying to sell us a Chanel women's watch (40usd) and an Audemars Piguet men's watch (60usd) that both looked unbelievably real. 2 blocks over, you could buy both of the watches in their real versions for 200 times as much. It has a great range of options. The city also is very rich with a culture that is impossible to completely escape, but this is a very good thing. I could go on and on about Hong Kong, but after spending the whole day enjoying it, it is far too late for more elaborations on this subject.

We began our day in Macau at 6am. We decided to forgo our morning gambling and begin the journey back to Hong Kong. We took 1 taxi through the pouring rain back to the ferry station, and boarded a return boat with all the other gamblers and freaks that are up this early. It was a much smoother ride than our initial one. The boat was about twice as large. Oddly, we were again seated in the 10th row with a snoring Chinese guy blocking the aisle. Fun. After taking the Ferry to Central Hong Kong Island, we boarded the orange line for a 30 minute train ride to Lantau island, one of the outer Hong Kong islands. Our hotel is located in a gigantic mall on Lantau Island and is called the Novotel Citygate. We really like the hotel. For the first time during this trip, our bed is actually soft. We were beginning to think that all of our beds over here would be hard because maybe Asians like firm beds. Thankfully, we have found an exception to our hard bed hypothesis. After checking in and a light lunch to a cacophony of malfunctioning fire alarms, Kristin and I decided to part ways. She had not been feeling well all day and desired some quiet time at our hotel to sleep, read magazines, work out, and enjoy the spa. I wanted to continue my love affair with this wonderful city. I began my long journey to the Sha Tin 10000 Buddhas Monastery. I would utilize 4 subway lines, walk about two miles, and climb over 500 steep steps to reach this destination. The pilgrimage was long and brutal. After taking the subway to the "new territories, which is a large rural and suburb like area north of Kowloon and south of mainland China, I had to walk a ways to the temple entry. The actual temple is nestled up in the hills, about 500 steps up. It was an arduous task to climb these steps, and my mind wandered to that scene in Kill Bill when Uma is training with the master, and he makes her relentlessly climb steps. This gave me some peace, but my tendons stretched and snapped like a thousand rubber bands with each step. I am 30 years young I told myself, nothing is getting pulled today. The entire path up the hill is lined with gold Buddhas that appear to cheer and mock the climber. I made it to the summit, and enjoyed the temple with over 12,800 miniature Buddhas adorning the walls. The temple grounds were sort of under construction, but it was worth the trek.

After the long trip home, I arrive to find the better half taking Chinese tea in the executive lounge overlooking the Lantau mountains and cable cars. She was feeling better and wanted to go shopping. We had some light snacks with tea, and then got ready to hit up some night markets and dinner at The Peninsula Hotel, which for many years was considered to be "the finest hotel east of the Suez Canal." We began our shopping at Langham place mall, which offers 14 floors of shops, each floor arranged by theme (shoes, electronics, etc). We have been noticing a lot of young Chinese lesbian couples, and it always seems like one has a garish trucker hat on with a slogan such as: "Go Bitches!" or "What gets you up in the morning?" or "Sport Dude Flex." It is probably some type of odd Chinese microtrend, like emo rappers or ironic masons, which is something I may start when I get back home. Anyways, the mall was full of these couples. Kristin really wanted to go to the Ladies market, which offers knockoff items for extremely cheap, like fake Gucci handbags and A. Lange Sohne watches that usually retail for $50,000 for about 1/1000th of that. It is a heavy barter environment, and we decided that we would stock up when we come back through Hong Kong. because our bags our so full as is.

Our next stop was The Peninsula Hotel, which is sort of the place to see and be seen in Hong Kong. It is considered an institution for Hong Kong luxury, and we really enjoyed the main dining room. It is on the Kowloon Peninsula and the main dining room has huge floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Hong Kong Island Skyline. The room is everything stunning is meant to convey. Kristin ate a soup and salad (fist pump) and I had the sea bass on a bed of spinach and shrimps. The meal tasted amazing, but like all expensive meals my gag reflux of spending resentment creeped in following the final bite. We decided to take a cruise across the harbor on the Star Ferry, which is an old ferry that has operated for over 100 years. It was a very cheap (about 25 cents) and romantic cruise with a great view of the night skyline. I will post the rest of the pics in about 6 hours when I wake up.






Thursday, July 2, 2009

Making a mess in Macau, China




We are now in Macau, which is a special administrative district of China. Macau is frequently called the Las Vegas of China, and that seems to be a fair edict. It was a colony of the Portuguese for some time and this is evident in some of its cuisine and architecture. I will tell you this though, we saw no Portuguese people today. I think we may actually be the only two white people in Macau. Everyone is Asian. Macau feels a lot more like China then Hong Kong. We stick out like the huge western map-toting slugs that we are. Macau has a sort of East meets train-wreck/insane sort of vibe. At one point in the day, we were standing on a fake man-made volcano, looking out over a roman coliseum with a middle eastern village and a downed black hawk chopper, all with a massive second rate casino in the background. This specific area that I speak of is known as the Fisherman's Wharf area, and it is sort of a minor league Chinese Epcot Center or something, very strange. Our theory on Macau is that there was a huge rush to put up as many casinos and attractions as quickly as possible, and it is sort of a huge ambitious mess in the middle of a rather large Chinese city. The mall was unfinished, and the wharf area felt like a huge elaborate ghost town. We saw very few people. All said, it is a very compelling place, and we throughly enjoyed it until the casinos overwhelmed us into oblivion.
Our day began in Hong Kong, on the 40th floor, jogging on treadmills overlooking Victoria Harbor. I cannot imagine a more beautiful way to jog without actually moving. After an American breakfast in Cafe du Parc at our hotel, we headed off to take the subway to the Sheung Wan stop, which is where the ferry to Macau departs. I would be lying to you all if I said that our commute to the stop was without incident. Kristin got caught in the middle of the turnstiles after her wheeled luggage registered as a person and locked her in. This was some terrific early morning melodrama. We both laughed it off as a "totally Kristin thing to do" and hustled to the ferry terminal to catch the 12:15 boat. The sea was extremely rocky and we both kind of thought that our breakfast may soon be starring in an unnecessary sequel, "Hash Prown - Part 2" (P is intentional, spelling is hilarious over here). We remembered that I bought these nausea bracelets that had been recommended to us by Kristin's mom. Either they worked or we are tougher than we both believed because the ride was bumpy as hell, but we were like a couple of worthy seadogs. We arrived in Macau and were transferred free of charge to our hotel - The Hotel Lisboa. Supposedly, the Lisboa casino is the most famous in Asia. It is definitely the brightest; our room is lit up like day time at 9:00pm. The Lisboa is filled with ALOT of Asian trinkets and antiques in cases. It is definitely a Chinese glam affair. The opulence is so overdone that if it were a steak it would be a pile of dust. Everything shines and glimmers, even our personal restroom seems fit for a shah. Our shower/tub has jets, foot massage bar, radio, numerous shower heads, and even doubles as a steam bath. Overall, we are very pleased with our room.

For lunch, we decided to have some dim sum at a revered restaurant in our hotel. Dim Sum is a wide range of light dishes usually served in the morning to mid-day. It is sort of like Chinese tapas. Kristin played it safe with a wonton soup dish that tasted excellent, while I opted for the Chef's dim sum recommendation. The recommendation included 8 items such as minced octopus and scallop roll, steamed cuttlefish dumpling, and sharktail bun (which for the record, I am not supportive of because the overfishing of sharks is destroying underwater ecosystems). Lunch was amazing, and neither of us even got a stomach ache. Kristin and I finished all of the dim sum except for half of one piece.

After our lunch, we set out for some light exploring. Taxis are very cheap in Macau, so that was are chosen form of transport. We stopped by the A-ma temple first. The A-ma temple has existed since the 15th century, and is considered the most famous in Macau. It did not seem like a tourist place, located sort of off the beaten track. Many people go to the temples to pray, so Kristin and I tread extremely lightly and take very few photographs within the temples. People buy fireworks and set them off in these temples, which we could not seem to figure out but think that maybe it is to ward off evil spirits. Most people light a bundle of incense and chant their prayers, after which they stick the incense sticks in offering bowls. We both wanted to take part, but have no bearing on the proper temple etiquette.

After A-ma temple, we headed to the fisherman's wharf to check it out. It includes a roman amphitheater, a faux-middle-eastern village, a downed black hawk chopper, a huge volcano (that we think operates a shut down rollercoaster), a huge Chinese temple, and more! It is an odd collection that is perhaps a paean to the random. The place was pretty empty, and we think that maybe it is incomplete. We went shopping in the mall under the volcano, and the grocer was half stocked with some serious welding going on just feet away from the check out line, lots of sparks. The whole area felt like a surreal half built ghost town designed by either mundane idiots or eccentric geniuses, depending purely on your perspective at that exact moment.

We headed north for a walled city garden, Lom Lim Ioc Garden. The garden was definitely a local place, with Chinese skinny old shirtless dudes doing t'ai chi and families relaxing next to lotus ponds. The park had ponds, bamboo groves, a huge gnarled banyan type tree, and a bridge with 9 turns in it, said to be used to escape evil spirits. Evil spirits can supposedly only go straight. Our walk through the park was filled with pleasantries, and felt unbelievably authentic. We left the park and since we were so deep in a local area, we could not find a cab. At first this seemed awful, but we had a very interesting mile long walk back to our hotel through a Chinese urban jungle. We got to peak into a number of strange stores, dodge mopeds, and brush elbows with locals. It was a great walk.

We finished our night exploring casinos and looking for a place to have dinner. Some encounters of note are the droves of dolled up Asian prostitutes roaming the bottom floor of the mall under our hotel/casino and the 3 american looking girls dressed like wild beasts dancing to Prodigy on the main stage at the Grand Lisboa casino.

We ended up throwing in the towel early, and shamefully ordering American food for room service. Tomorrow we head back to Hong Kong for two days and are going to explore the outer islands. Here are some pictures from today:







Kristin getting her temperature at our Hong Kong hotel






On the subway to Macau Ferry terminal






It was a pretty full car






Ferry ride to Macau





Our hotel






Kristin in hotel lobby






Our room at Lisboa






View from room






Another picture of room





Opulent restroom






Little tree






Kristin's wonton soup





Dim Sum






Is this face intentional?






Shrimp dim sum dish





Lisboa Sundae





Entry to Hotel Lisboa





Typical Chinese street






Macau






A-ma temple entrance






Justin at temple





Praying in temple






Kristin making an offering






Temple dogs with Macau tower in background






Offering bowl at temple






Macau casino skyline






Fisherman's Wharf - empty






Roman Amphitheatre?






Large Temple






Too much going on here...






The Vulcano






Kristin and Justin






Cool statue on water






Lom Lim Ioc Garden





Gnarled tree




Lotus Pond






Curving (9) bridge






Mannequin store






Walk through Macau city






Kristin in front of casino