Ueno Park and Shinobazu Pond

Tokyo has a shadow of its past that claims pockets of the modern city. Ueno is an area of the city where the past still stirs.

Hamarikyu Gardens in Tokyo

 A classic teahouse in the center of Hamarikyu Gardens - my favorite park in Tokyo

Meiji Jingu in Tokyo

Here is a massive Torii, or gate, that serves as an opening to the Shinto shrine and park of Meiji Jingu. This is a peaceful park just steps away from the street cat walk of Harajuku.

Shibuya Crossing

Busiest Crossing in the world - Shibuya, Japan 

Some great Soba and Tempura in Tokyo - Yabu Soba

 One of my favorite Japanese meals 

 Entry to Yabu Soba 

 Udon

Kristin enjoying

The heart of Tokyo - Tokyo Imperial Palace

Tokyo is like an octopus. It has many hearts. At its heart of hearts though is the Imperial Palace, covering a massive expanse of open space and shaded paths on perhaps the most valuable land in the world. During the peak of the Japanese boom in the 1980's, the Imperial Palace grounds were valued higher than all of the real estate in California, combined. That was a bubble, but still, fucking crazy.

Nakagin Capsule Tower

The old school new school. The future stillborn in the past. Much of Tokyo has this sort of retro futurism that is cool and disarming. One of the icons that represent this aesthete is the classic Nakagin Capsule Tower, which you can Airbnb now. I will definitely stay there next time I am in Japan. I always pass by it and wonder what the hell is inside. It is very very curious looking.

Akihabra in Tokyo - the digital jungle

A bored maid 

Look Up Tokyo! Shinjuku, Tokyo at Night

Color floors action - The night is Shinjuku Kabukichō

Ginza the heart

Octopi have a few hearts. Japan is like this. It has many hearts of shopping. Shibuya, Harajuku, Omotesandō, even Akihabra for the electronos. Ginza is the heart of hearts for Japan shopping though - I give it the crown. Its wide boulevard is always a great walk. And its location is perfect.

Tsukiji fish market of Tokyo

The freshest sushi I have ever eaten in my life was in the Rock Islands of Micronesia. A local fisherman pulled the fish out of the sea, and we were eating sashimi within the hour. It was all very simple and perfect. Supply is all about the vertical. It all starts somewhere. I was there.

Catches come from all over the pacific, from countries like Palau that have GDPs the size of Series D balance sheets. The fish are flown to Tokyo for the world's top fish market. Basically, Tsukiji is to fish what Wall Street is to money and finance (or was). Money passes through the markets. Fish passes through Tsukiji.

The place is part circus part aquatic slaughterhouse, with all manner of peculiar vehicles, people, critters, smells, and sights. 

Smoke and Temples Japan

Old Edo still lurks in corners of crowded Tokyo

Giant robot in Tokyo

Towering over a massive mall, smoking from the shoulder like a badass

The best ginger beer/ale in Tokyo

 A few months ago in Tokyo, we found a really cool outdoor food area in  Omotesando, close to the subway stop. While unusual eateries were everywhere, we stopped to grab a ginger beer and sample some fries at Brooklyn Ribbon Fries. In the picture above you can see it as the tin shack with BRE on the side. This whole area had a ton of cool shops and mini-restaurants amid the bustle of Omotesando.

Shinjuku dreams

The clouds that hovered in Tokyo never seemed to lift, blanketing skyscrapers where Japanese corporate leaders once flew dangerously close to the sun.  Japan's culture pervades society in a way that encompasses even the most minute detail - even the reflections off of a damp pavement seem decidedly "Japanese."  It is a culture that owns its country, and a country that owns its culture.  Nowhere else is the visitor lead into the ephemeral quality of culture so obviously, and yet, when just mm away from understanding, it dissipates like a cool morning fog you can just barely smell.  That is Japan.

Now when I close my eyes, the lights of Shinjuku still linger like phantoms on the back of my eyelids.  So bright and yet to fade.

Tokyo Kawaii - Overdosing on cute in the heart of Japan

Kristin and I jumped over to Tokyo for a few nights last summer.  While there, we had a great time, checking out a bunch of amazing stuff.  Tokyo immediately vaulted towards the top of our list of favorite cities.  I took thousands of pictures, but some of my favorites are from the cute, or kawaii, side of Tokyo.

We prowled the shopping district of Ginza, bathing our eyes in untouchable Hermes bags, eating delicious baked sweets, and racing into toy stores to buy stuffed capybaras and to gawk at the multiverse of cute shoehorned into every floor.  We hit the apex of cute at Hakuhinkan Toy Park and just sort of rode the tide all the way back to the Haneda airport, where we departed, better for having visited Tokyo.

You start seeing things and it just seems normal.  "Of course," you think, why wouldn't Elmo be sitting at a table inside a bank seemingly in the middle of a conversation about CDs?  Why wouldn't the emergency exit explanation in the subway include an exit diagram with dinosaurs and other interesting trappings?  Japan seems to stamp some badge of character onto anything, and it is refreshing, and usually pretty damn cute. 

Enjoy the pictures.